Without the satisfaction of leaving the Lake District with
a proper farewell, a re-plan of the Patterdale to Shap section, at the end of
the walk, is under way.
My hotel room the next morning looked like a Chinese
Laundry, every place that I could use to hang something on was taken. Opening
the curtains, the condensation on the windows, or should I say the waterfalls
of water running down the pains probably flooded the rooms below, I exaggerate
not!! Today its 20 miles of flatter
walking and the weather could not have been more different. It was also a day
where I would end up walking on my own for the majority of the route. The
scenery was totally different, moorland, climbing over dry stone walls, through
rolling fields and some road sections. For the first time I could stride out
and stretch those legs that had got me this far. The first obstacle was the M6
the noise of which would stay with me for quite a few miles. But suddenly you realise you're
in a different environment, limestone. The formation of the limestone
'pavements' through natural erosion were fascinating to walk on and look at.
The map showed numerous stone circles, the GPS being needed to find them
amongst the long grass. Stonehenge they are not. Additionally along the route
massive granite boulders could be seen transported by the glaziers of the last
ice age, Erratics as they are known. On towards Orton, the Orton Scar now in view
on my left and for a change Wainwright kept to the lower ground. I would turn
left before reaching Orton village, no time to visit on this occasion. Through
numerous dry stone walled fields and farms each with a nifty style to climb
over. Note, I'm getting fed up with styles. Then out on to the moorland heading
towards Sunbiggin Tarn. A good spot for some lunch and a read, and catch up, of
the Wainwright book. Next the landscape changing as the fells appeared.
Down towards Smardale Bridge where, on the opposite side of the Beck, large
rectangular mounds could be seen, known locally as the Giants Graves, what
they're for no one knows. Across Smardale Bridge nearly ending up with a wet
backside as the stones just under the water, from a side brook, were extremely
slippery. A viaduct of an old disused
railway traversing the beck further down came into view, this used to serve the
old quarry and kilns which could now be seen on the far side of the valley.
With the sun shining brighter in the afternoon the Pennines came into sight.
The dry stone walls, some looking quite new, went on for miles. Past more
limestone kilns with the Eden Valley opening up before me, then down into Kirby
Stephen. The Croft house B&B was interesting with its gothic style black
flock wall paper and black tassels hanging from the bed canopy. The bathroom,
beyond description with a plaster cast bum facing you in the mornings. That
evening a chicken curry in the Kings Arms opposite made a nice change to the
normal Steak and Ale menu.