A short walk for
today of only 12 miles, again a walk of complete contrast, this time through
the lead mining industry deep in the moors. After a quick tour around the
village, the stone buildings of Keld hiding their industrial past, I was on my
way. Supplies for the day picked up at the camp site shop. The many tributaries with waterfalls marked the start of the river Swale which would
be my companion for many days. The drizzle started soon into the walk and like
all Wainwright walks the climb to the high ground began. Crackpot Hall with its
original hearth and a tin bath started the trip back in time, soon at Swinner
Gill the ruinous remains of the lead mining past came into view, the devastation
to the landscape plainly seen. The climb up through East Grain took a bit if
doing, it was not the easiest route up to the high ground. At Gunnerside Smelt Mill,
kilns, peat stores etc all showed the vast extend of this harsh industry. The
climb up through the Bunton 'Hush[1]'
showed the real devastation that was caused to the landscape. On top, with the
mist coming in, the lunar scene with the scattered remains of old rusting
machinery was surreal. The landscape so poisoned that vegetation has not been
able to re-establish itself. Down to Old Gang mine, where lunch was had and a
walk around the ruins trying to understand what the derelict buildings were
used for. Then out down the valley through farm land and on to Reeth my next
stop. Reeth is a pretty village forming a square around the village green. The
Buck hotel was busy with locals and walkers catching the football results. That
evening several groups of Coast to Coast walkers all converged for their
evening meal and again more beer was had. Any idea of losing weight and gaining
fitness went out the window!
[1] Hushing is an ancient and historic mining method using a flood
or torrent of water to reveal the ore veins stripping away the soil.